By Michael McCarthy By Michael McCarthy | September 12, 2024 | Feature, Travel,
New treehouses at Vermont’s Twin Farms tap into nostalgia with modern twists.
THE SETTING
When I told a friend I was visiting Twin Farms (twinfarms.com), she lowered her voice and said, “You know it’s legendary, right? Like some kind of vacationer’s secret society.”
I’ve heard tales about this 400-acre getaway dotted with meadows, ponds and mountains located a little over an hour south of Burlington, Vt. Early last summer, I attended a dinner in Northern California and happened to sit across from Twin Farms’ chef, Nathan Rich (@chefnathanrich). Upon hearing about my visit, he grinned mysteriously. “You’ll eat well,” he said.
Twin Farms, a Relais & Châteaux (relaischateaux.com) property, is part of an association celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. The hospitality brand is known for its commitment to sustainability and presence in 65 countries. Guests at Twin Farms can embark on the Route du Bonheur, a journey that connects it with other like-minded luxury hotels.
Like-mindedness is one thing. Originality is another. This is where Twin Farms shines. “With every detail, I want guests to feel like they’re in Vermont,” says John Graham, the managing director, as we stand in a bustling kitchen before lunch service. “We’re such a departure from anything anyone else has experienced.”
THE TREEHOUSES
Inspired by the property’s Aviary Cottage, the 800-square-foot treehouses are elevated 20 feet above the ground with curved decks that bring guests face-to-face with the treetops. Even if your childhood didn’t include summer days in treehouses (mine had a wobbly zip line and a hearth that made the fire marshall nervous), walking along the boardwalk to the front door of one of the eight treehouses is a study in nostalgia.
The design firm Michaelis Boyd (michaelisboyd.com) got everything right: the reflective, floor-to-ceiling windows for privacy, pitched ceilings and a floor plan that allows guests to wake with forest views. The muted palette for each interior reflects the resort’s seasons, with pinks, lavenders and rusted hues.
Each house also features a dining table, kitchen, spacious bath with a soaking tub and heated floors, gas fireplace and Audubon books scattered among lovely handmade vases atop wooden shelves. Another nice touch: Each night, guests receive gifts on their beds that showcase local artisans, including Shackleton Thomas porcelain.
Chef Nathan Rich and his team create gorgeous dishes, including desserts.
DINING
The main dining room recently received a makeover. The space feels like a contemporary manor house, with a large fieldstone fireplace, massive doors leading to a patio, floral wallpaper on the ceiling, plush velvet chairs with green and gold pillows.
The culinary team sources butter, cheese, beef and pork from local farms (the chickens are raised on the property); the same applies to herbs, fruits and vegetables. Honey comes from the farm’s hives. Lead sommelier and wine director Morgan LaCroix plucks bottles from the resort’s 15,000-bottle cellar, featuring renowned French and California estates.
Another dining space, Twiggs, received a makeover as a casual alternative to the main dining room. The restaurant, graced with timber posts and beams, features handpainted wallpaper, plush leather booths and a menu that includes masterpieces like grilled scallops with radish, celery root, sake beurre blanc and caviar, and Maine lobster with pea puree, potatoes and spring onions. One thing is clear: The kitchen understands how subtlety and playfulness make the best meals.
Activities, including yoga, abound at Twin Farms.
THE ACTIVITIES
With fewer than 60 rooms occupying the property, it often feels like you have the place to yourself. My wife and I hike for a few hours on the well-marked trails traversing the woods and don’t see another person. The crescendo is the Lift Shack, a perfect respite for a picnic the staff can arrange during a hike. Shack is a misnomer, as it boasts a stocked fridge, Bose speakers and a heater for chilly days. It also offers 360-degree views of the Green Mountains. Guests can also tour the property by bike, flyfish and kayak Copper Pond, play tennis on pampered courts or try the art of axe tossing (the latter is fairly addictive).
THE TAKEAWAY
I mention to Graham the hushed tone my friend used about this place. He laughs. “We do things differently here, but it’s all to create memories—to feel like you’ve visited somewhere you won’t forget,” he says. There should be reverence for that level of service and aptitude. But instead of guests feeling like they’re walking into a hospitality shrine, Graham wants them to feel like they’re experiencing a measure of luxury that feels like a new home deep in the Vermont woods.
Photography by: SIMON LANGLOIS; COURTESY OF TWIN FARMS