New dining spaces, even on high, usher in a summer of culinary love in the District.
Wood-fired oysters at dLeña in DC’s Mount Vernon Triangle. PHOTO COURTESY OF DLEŇA
dLeña
When everything works—that is, when a new restaurant becomes a hit almost overnight—a number of factors play into the equation. Great food and a competent kitchen are the chief factors, of course. But so are the intangibles: design, staff, location and more than a little audacity that creates word of mouth. When I recently visited Richard Sandoval’s latest venture in the District’s Mount Vernon Triangle neighborhood, it was clear the restaurateur had another success to add to an impressive résumé. First, the 5,000-square-foot indoor and outdoor resto is a visual knockout, with cozy leather banquettes lining a room illuminated with chandeliers adorned with handcrafted tassels. Executive chef Carlos Camacho leads a kitchen that produces authentic Mexican fare with modern influences—all enhanced by wood-burning cooking hearths. Early menu standouts include branzino, served with charred marinade, grilled half avocado and corn salsa; wagyu steak a la piedra, served with poblano pepper, caramelized onions, homemade salsas and made-to-order tortillas; and charred cauliflower with a chimichurri and watercress lemon salad. Don’t skip dessert, especially with offerings like carajillo creme brulee (made with Licor 43 and espresso) and pastel de elote—a grilled corn cake served with caramel-cajeta ice cream and topped with hibiscus mezcal sauce. 476 K St. NW, 202.560.5999, dlenadc.com
An impressive summer cocktail menu awaits guest at Summit the Rooftop. PHOTO: BY ALBERT TING
Summit the Rooftop at Conrad
With views that stretch across the city—even as far as the Wilson Bridge—this new space isn’t simply a pretty face. The kitchen crew, led by executive chef Josh Murray, also puts on a show. On a recent Saturday night, the rooftop buzzed with patrons enjoying tapassize fare like tacos stuffed with locally sourced fish, Maryland crab salad, fluke ceviche and Chesapeake hard clams with chipotle bourbon butter and toast. Regional distillers are the heroes of the cocktail program. Sips we love include the Vantage Point, made with Green Hat gin (Ivy City, DC), grapefruit, Campari, tarragon-infused vermouth and honey; and the Modernist, crafted from Belmont Farms Scotch whisky (Culpeper, Va.), Mumm sparkling wine, rosemary, lemon juice and honey. Among the local craft beers at the expansive bar, patrons will find pints hailing from Port City Brewing Co. (Alexandria, Va.), Solace Brewing Company (Dulles, Va.) and Evolution Craft Brewing Co. (Salisbury, Md.). The wines, all wisely curated, include winners like a crisp 2018 Planeta chardonnay from leading Sicilian winemaker Francesca Planeta, and 2018 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection pinot noir from the pioneer of cool-climate viticulture in Sonoma, Theresa Heredia. 950 New York Ave. NW, 202.844.5900, conradwashingtondc.com
Luca Giovannini drives the cocktail program at Donahue. DONAHUE PHOTO BY TIMOTHY YANTZ
WHINO
We now have a candidate for one of the most impressive restaurant concepts of recent memory: a restaurant and art gallery divined by the creator of Art Whino, Shane Pomajambo, who has launched massive shows at Miami’s Art Basel, Richmond’s Mural Project, the Austin Art Show and the G40 Art Summit, among others. Th e intent with WHINO is for the mother ship, Art Whino, which has been a powerhouse in DC for 15 years, to transition into this new space. WHINO will showcase established artists of all genres and new artists like rising star Dragon76, who recently finished a mural at the United Nations. Located on the second floor of the new Ballston Quarter on Wilson Boulevard, the 6,200-square-foot restaurant and gallery feels like a Penn Quarter or Georgetown loft , with exposed brick and high black steel ceilings. Works of art—immersive murals—define six unique spaces, including a 25-seat open-kitchen bar, a 51-foot craft cocktail bar and a beverage-tasting bar that seats 11 patrons. Eleft herios (Terry) Natas, who has served as regional chef for Richard Sandoval’s El Centro D.F., is WHINO’s executive chef. Th e globally focused menu features small plates like smoked octopus, with harissa chickpea puree and smoked salt; prime dry-aged beef, with polenta fries, charred endive and salsa verde; and handmade ricotta gnocchi, with seasonal vegetables, saffron vegetable brodo, Grana Padano and toasted hazelnuts. 4238 Wilson Blvd., 571.290.3958, whinova.com
Donahue
Just as DC began to slowly and safely open earlier this spring, Georgetown notched a chic new dining and cocktail spot known simply as Donahue. The founders, Luca Giovannini (former corporate beverage director for Fabio Trabocchi Restaurants), Cesar Varela (former sommelier and cellar master for Fabio Trabocchi Restaurants) and Noe Landini (the restaurateur behind Bar Deco, Anchor Bar, Fish Market, Pop’s Ice Cream and members-only club CXIIIREX), created a gorgeous globally inspired concept—the type of place to celebrate the return of chic nights out. The menu, executed by chef Antonio Burrell, includes a full a la carte selection of caviar, Cinco Jotas iberico, truffle, seafood towers and sashimi. 1338 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.450.4909, donahuedc.com
Photography by: DLena' Albert Ting; Timothy Yantz
