June 29, 2017 | Feature
Super Siphons
The latest American kitchen gadget was originally used as a Japanese coffee brewer. Now chefs are using the futuristic-looking siphon to craft some of the most sublime soups and sauces in town. When heat is applied to the bottom bowl, vaporized pressure forces the liquid into the upper chamber, where it’s instantly infused with the incomparably intense flavor of the spices and seasonings placed there. Don’t miss the bouillabaisse at The Backroom at Kingbird (2650 Virginia Ave. NW, thewatergatehotel.com), the chicken consumme at Joselito (660 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, joselitodc.com) and the smoke yellowfin agnolotti at Oval Room (800 Connecticut Ave. NW, ovalroom.com).
Righteous Ramen
Celebrated chefs are revolutionizing ramen by offering unique interpretations of the Japanese mainstay. We love the exotic ramen at Bar Pilar (1833 14th St. NW, barpilar.com) and a dish called Keeping It Light at James Beard Award nominee Erik Bruner-Yang’s Paper Horse (2201 I St. NW, facebook.com/paperhorsebar). Our favorite, though, is Bantam King’s (501 G St. NW, bantamking.com) shoyu paitan featuring chicken-based tonkatsu sauce, dandelion greens, a soy-marinated soft-boiled egg, shredded chicken, leeks and a dainty fish cake.
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